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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate familiar high-end venues. However, nestled near the top among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The recognition has left the owners completely astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” states a proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant earning such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the fare, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary achievement.